Goa

There is alot of hype about Goa.
Many tales go around and live in the whispers of travelers.

Unfortunately, I got to experience a different reality.

This old ‘Goa’, this paradise of naked hippies raving on the beaches, peace for everyone, eternal festival, this place where one can escape from the madness of India and relax, feel home, bond with people, it seemed to me that only the story of this remains.
The story of a Goa that died.

Goan beach
Goan beach

Many things must have changed, from hordes of russian tourists coming with chartered flights that are all canceled since one year ago, to the sudden strictness of the motorbikes having a plate and the drivers having a license.

It might be just that I arrived at the wrong time, but what I found there, was the opposite of what I expected.

The hotels seemed to abuse the reputation and asked for prices too high; motorbike rental stalls were very much available, in fact they were all over the place, however the prices were so as well.

Omg Goan beach
Omg Goan beach

And a single foreigner I did not see. I ended up spending ~5 days in Goa, and only saw Indian tourists.
Yes, this did imply that the streets were extremely dirty. Touristy Indians throw more trash on the ground than Indians at home.
Or maybe it were the cows on the beach opening up the few trash cans that were there…

For the Indian tourists, Goa is now a place where you can walk around on the street with a beer in your hand. In many places in India this is not allowed, only drinking in private would be allowed, and in some places a total ban would be in place.
So here they can ‘go wild’ and drink a beer while walking on the street.

Babes on the beach
Babe on the beach

While I was having a coffee on the beach, a random Indian guy came and asked me for money, because the day before he was going wild and fell asleep on the beach, where a thief in the night took all his rupees and his Samsung Galaxy phone.

I was a little bit in doubt, for a multitude of reasons.
1. I’m very frustrated with all Indian people thinking I am rich. I worked for this and lived in great sobriety to save every euro I could, I’m using all my money, and might very well have given up a good old day, just to make this travel happen.
2. I don’t like giving random people money. If I give to one, it’s injustice to all the rest.
3. I don’t have money to spare, and every rupee I give I certainly will not get back. As friendly and nice as many Indian people are, they would not give me money or treat me.
4. If I give money to people asking for it, I’m supporting a begging system. It is a capitalistic society after all, which means that every bit of money one spends, goes into the support of what you are spending it on.
5. He spoke Inglish. It was extremely hard to figure out if he was actually in trouble or just spouting out some nonsense to get free money.
6. There was a friend next to him who didn’t say anything the whole time. And they both still had their backpacks.

In fact, the beach was full of babes
In fact, the beach was full of babes

So, dear reader, what would you have done?
I ended up giving him money for the bus, and letting him make a call to his father.
He could then take the bus to the next city where a friend of his father could borrow him some money to get home.

However, the same night, I saw him again, that friend of his father wasn’t home.
Now it was getting even more fishy. Am I just treating this guy free beers or is he even more in trouble than he was?
Anyway I took him to a restaurant for some food and gave him a bit more money. But this was enough.

His name was Raj. And he lived in Mumbai.

Crystal white beautiful waves
Crystal white beautiful waves

After a day or two I did settle down and just relaxed. Took some walks on the beach and did enjoy the sea very much.
It was a bit of a special sea, the waves were very bright and white, and they randomly flooded very close or far from the sea.

So I could enjoy the place, but in general I must admit it was a bit of a disappointment.
Though lesson iterated: Expectations can diminish or even crush our experiences.

Fort Kochi (Cochin) & Munnar – Sliding into planlessness

Here begins the following 1.5 months where I wouldn’t meet a foreigner nor have any form of decent conversation.

An unexpected sight
An unexpected sight

In Kochi, I was mainly relaxing. The place was pretty interesting, being a big city, an island with an airport and another island called ‘Fort Kochi’, where I spent my time.

Didn’t quite know what to do from here, as this is where all the airline issues popped up – the outcome of this obviously would impact my further travel plans.

I headed up to Munnar, a beautiful hill station drenched in fields of tea bushes.
It was quite a unique sight, to see hilltops with these flat, dark green fields.

On the bus towards Munnar
On the bus towards Munnar

It is here in Munnar that I had my first big stroke of homesickness.
The colder climat, grey clouds and rainy weather at that day, reminded me a lot of home sweet old Belgium.
That, combined with being tired and I don’t know what else, made me very mellow and longing for home, already I’d experienced more than enough to make this travel worthwhile.

I took a bus up the hill instead of the ‘tour rikshaw’, for about 90 rupees instead of 1000, and enjoyed a magnificent view.

This was not in line with my will
This was not in line with my will

This must be one of the unique features of India, the incredible differences in landscape.
This country simply has it all, from huge rivers with coconut trees bending down on them, a dawning sun reflecting gloriously on the waters, to grand fields filled with trees, from beautiful flowers aside the road to the Himalayas.

Tea fields of Munnar
Tea fields of Munnar

Truly amazing to experience. Even just taking a 10 hour train ride is an experience of which most people don’t realize it should be on their ‘must do before I die’ checklist.

Just 5-6 hours on a bus, and from a huge city with a beach side, I was up in a totally different climate, up in the mountains. Crazy huh?

The most epic church I've ever seen
The most epic church I’ve ever seen

Back to Kochi, had time to kill so stepped in a tuktuk that would drive me all around the place if I go and visit some shops, where he gains tokens and in return petrol for his tuktuk.
A normally terribly deal and extremely annoying hassle, but I had time, the sun was shining, and wanted to see a few more sides of this place.

To Goa!
Although that excitement might not be justified…